Hair, Hormones and Growing Up

Hair, Hormones and Growing Up: What Really Happens to Your Hair and Scalp

As hormones begin to shift in the pre-teen and teenage years, you may notice changes not only in your skin but also in your scalp and hair. These changes can feel sudden, confusing, and sometimes frustrating, especially when they affect how you feel about yourself day to day. If you’re reading this to understand your own hair, or if you’re here to help guide someone you care about, you’re in the right place. This is what I commonly see as a trichologist when hormones start to change during adolescence.

Why Hormones Affect the Scalp and Hair

Hormones influence the sebaceous glands in the scalp, which control how much oil (sebum) is produced. When these glands become more active, it can lead to:

• An oily scalp that feels greasy quickly, even after washing

• Ends that remain dry or brittle because oil doesn’t always travel evenly down the hair shaft

• Shifts in texture, such as frizz forming as new curl patterns develop, or curls loosening and dropping into waves

Another key hormone is testosterone and its by-product, dihydrotestosterone (DHT). In people who are genetically sensitive to DHT, hair follicles can begin to shrink over time, leading to thinning or shedding. This is why some males may notice changes in the hairline or crown earlier, while females are less likely to see this until later in life. For females with conditions like polycystic ovary syndrome (PCOS) or endometriosis, hormonal fluctuations can trigger scalp oiliness, flaking, or even thinning hair at a younger age.

Common Changes You Might Notice

• Oily scalp and flat roots – hair feels heavy or greasy soon after washing

• Dry, rough ends – especially noticeable on longer hair

• Flaking or dandruff – caused by excess oil feeding yeast that naturally lives on the scalp

• Breakouts near the hairline – triggered by excess oil or product build-up

• Texture shifts – frizz appearing as hair transitions into a new curl pattern, or curls dropping into looser waves

• Thinning or shedding – more common in males with a genetic predisposition, but possible in females with certain hormonal conditions

How to Wash Your Hair Properly

How often you cleanse and how you do it are equally important. A correct wash routine keeps follicles clear, prevents buildup, and supports healthy growth.

1. Brush your scalp and hair with a boar bristle brush before washing. This helps distribute your nutrient-rich natural oils down the hair shaft, acting as a natural conditioner for your ends. Brushing also lifts environmental particles and product buildup from the follicles, creating an even canvas for your wash. At the same time, it gently stimulates blood flow to the scalp, supporting the delivery of nutrients that help your hair stay healthy and strong.                                                                           

2. Wet hair thoroughly before applying shampoo. Water helps loosen surface oil and buildup.

3. Emulsify shampoo in your hands with a little water before applying it to your scalp. This helps spread the product evenly.

4. Massage for two minutes using your fingertips, not your nails. Focus on reaching all areas of the scalp, not just the crown.

5. Rinse thoroughly. If shampoo is not rinsed well, cleansing agents can remain attached to oil and dirt, drying back into the hair and trapping debris even after washing.

6. Double cleanse if needed. The first wash removes oil and buildup, the second gently cleanses the scalp and hair properly.

7. Apply conditioner mainly to the mid-lengths and ends. If your scalp feels dry, you can use a scalp-friendly conditioner like Strengthen and Shine. Smooth it through until hair feels slippery between your fingers.

8. Rinse again until the hair feels light and clean. Conditioner left behind can also trap dirt or residue.

Brushing and Daily Maintenance

Between washes, gently brush with a boar bristle brush from scalp to ends. This helps lift product residue, dust, and environmental particles from the scalp while distributing natural oils evenly through the hair. It helps hair feel fresher for longer and maintains scalp balance.

Make sure to keep your tools clean between wash days to stop transferring dirt na doil back into your hair. Read our brush cleaning guide here. 

When detangling wet hair, use a wide-tooth comb like our partner and style. Start from the ends and work upwards to avoid breakage. Hair is at its most fragile when wet, so be patient and gentle.

Keep a Scalp-Friendly Routine

Wash your hair as often as needed to feel clean. For some, that might be daily, while others may prefer every second or third day. Use a shampoo that suits your scalp type. If flakes or oil are a problem, a gentle anti-dandruff shampoo like Trichobarrier once or twice a week can help balance oil production and reduce flakes.

Avoid applying heavy oils or butters directly to the scalp. These can block follicles and feed the malassezia yeast that contributes to flaking. Always rinse thoroughly to prevent residue from building up.

Balance Oiliness and Dryness

It’s normal for the scalp and ends to have different needs. Treat them separately if necessary.

• Use lightweight cleansing on the scalp and hydrating care on the ends.

• Don’t skip conditioner even if your scalp feels oily; your ends still need moisture.

• Keep pillowcases and hair tools clean, as oil and product residue can transfer back onto your hair and scalp.

Support Hair From the Inside

A balanced diet rich in protein, iron, zinc, and vitamins supports healthy hair growth. Staying hydrated helps regulate oil production and supports overall skin health. If menstrual cycles are irregular, or if there are symptoms of hormonal conditions like PCOS, seek advice from a healthcare professional for early support.

Care for Changing Textures

Hormonal changes can alter your curl pattern, creating frizz or new waves. Be patient while your hair adjusts.

• Use a leave-in conditioner or lightweight curl definer, like our Bounce Balm Curl Cream on damp hair to shape and smooth texture.

• Let your hair air dry or use a diffuser on low heat.

• Avoid brushing once hair is dry to prevent frizz.

• Try heat-free rollers to create even shape and reduce damage from daily styling.

Quick Guide: Actionable Tips

Oily scalp with new frizz or curls forming:
Cleanse gently but more often. Massage shampoo into the scalp for a full cleanse and rinse thoroughly. Apply Heat Halo - Smooth and Shine Serum on damp hair to smooth frizz without flattening texture.

Oily scalp with dry ends:
Focus Trichobarrier shampoo on the roots, then condition the mid-lengths and ends until they feel soft and smooth.

Flaking or dandruff:
Use Trichobarrier or another gentle anti-dandruff shampoo once or twice a week. Massage it in and leave for a minute before rinsing. Avoid scratching flakes with your nails.

Texture changes (frizz, new waves or curls):
Support your new texture with hydration and styling. Apply leave-in Bounce Balm Curl Cream and allow it to dry naturally.

Hair loss (predisposed to androgenic alopecia):
Start plant-based vasodilation early and consider natural DHT blockers such as saw palmetto or pumpkin seed to help support follicle health. You'll find these in our Stimulate and Strengthen Shampoo and Rescued By Range

Styling Confidence and Everyday Tips

Even with the best care, some days your hair won’t behave. Here are a few practical ways to manage it:

• If your roots feel oily but you don’t have time to wash, use a small amount of Rejuvenate Dust mixed with water and applied at night works well, then brush out in the morning with a boar bristle brush.

• If frizz takes over, scrunch in a small amount of Silk Elixir

• If curls or waves look uneven, twist small damp sections and let them air dry for more definition.

• If hair feels flat from oil, try a loose bun with a claw clip, braid, or half-up style. Avoid tight styles that pull on the hair, as this can cause traction alopecia.

• If you’re self-conscious about scalp visibility, change your part slightly to one side for more natural coverage.

• Always keep brushes, combs, and accessories clean to prevent product and oil buildup.

Final Thoughts

Hormonal changes affect everyone differently, but your scalp and hair are always part of the story. Whether you’re managing oiliness, dryness, flakes, frizz, or shedding, the key is to treat your scalp gently, nourish your body, and give your hair the care it needs. These habits will not only make your hair feel healthier now but will set you up for strong, balanced hair in the years ahead.